Monday, March 12, 2012

Uzbekistan | Bukhara | Chasma Ayub

Seven hundred feet northeast of Ismael Samani’s Mausoleum is the Spring of Job, he of Afflictions notoriety. According to legend, way back in Old Testament days, long before Jesus was even a gleam in Joseph’s eye (assuming you do not believe in the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception) Job was wandering around in Mawarannahr, the land north of the Amu Darya River. As if he did not have enough problems of his own, here in the valley of the Zerafshan River, where Bukhara is now located, he encountered a terrible drought. A famine raged and people were dying of thirst. Job in his rage at these conditions thrust his walking stick into the ground and amazingly enough sweet, cool water began to pour out of the hole he had made. This water source began known as the Spring of Job, or Chasma Ayub. 

In the 12th century the Qarakhanid chieftain Arslan Khan, who then ruled Bukhara and as we shall soon see also built the famous Kalon Minaret, built a monument around the spring (which in fact appears to be a well). Apparently at least the foundation of this structure survived the Mongol assault on the city in 1220, and in 1380 or perhaps 1384 (a dated inscription over the door is unclear) Amir Timur, the immortal Tamerlane, apparently rebuilt or restored the existing structure and added a conical cupola on a high drum. This conical design is foreign to Mawarannahr, and at least one historian has speculated that it is the work of Khorezmian architects and builders who Amir Timur imported into the area after the fall of the Khorezemian capital to his troops in 1379 (Khorezm, as you know, is the ancient realm located on the lower Amu Darya, northwest of Mawarannahr). The other domes may date to as late of the sixteenth century. 

Apart from its unusual domed cupola and other domes the starkly austere fortress-like building is devoid of any exterior ornamentation. Inside the Spring (or well) of Job still provides water which is said to imbued with beneficial qualities. Many people come here on pilgrimages both to drink the water straight from the well and to fill bottles to take home. Some women apparently believe that drinking the water will help them conceive children. Even in the short time I was present three woman who came in separately drank the water and then sat down on the nearby benches to engage in fervent prayer. Presumably these prayers will work in coordination with the active participation of their spouses. In any case, the water does seem quite sweet, especially compared with the notoriously lousy Bukhara city water, and only slightly mineralized. I am a connoisseur of drinking water and while the Spring of Job may not provide the tastiest water in the world it is certainly passable, and an extra fillip of interest is added by its association with Job. 

Just behind well, in a separate room, is a tomb. Some tour guides and local touts insist that this is the tomb of Job himself. You may wonder how an Old Testament character ended up buried in Bukhara, but remember, Daniel, he of Lion’s Den fame, is said to be buried in Samarkand. Written histories and guidebooks, however, maintain a discrete silent about who may be buried here. But if the Afflicted One is not buried here then we must wonder who is?
 Front of Chasma Ayub
 Back of Chasma Ayub, showing the unusual conical dome on a high drum
 Water spigots offering water from the Spring of Job. The tomb can be seen behind. 
 The Spring of Job (apparently a well) itself
The tomb behind the well. Does Job rest here after his Sojourn in this Vale of Tears?

Friday, March 9, 2012

Uzbekistan | Tashkent | Bukhara

Woke up this morning in Bukhara, Uzbekistan. I am not quite sure how I got here. I seem to recall a hurried trip to the airport in Ulaanbaatar; a three hour flight to Seoul, an overnight in a luxurious hotel near the airport, courtesy of Korean Airlines, since I was flying with KAL to Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, the next day; a seven hour and twenty minute flight from Seoul to Tashkent; a night in the Grand Wazoo Hotel in Tashkent; a quick trip in the pre-dawn darkness to the domestic airport in Tashkent, a fifty minute flight to Bukhara; and taxi ride to Komil’s Guesthouse in the southern part of the Old City, where I soon found myself in the ornately decorated dining room having breakfast.
Welcoming sign at Komil’s
 Entrance to Komil’s Guesthouse
  Interior of guesthouse. The building was once the private residence of a prosperous Bukharan trader.
 Dining Room in the guesthouse
Wall furnishings in the dining room
Wall furnishings in the dining room

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Mongolia | Incarnations of Javsandamba 16 – 25

Earlier I posted about the statues of  the first  First Sixteen Incarnations of Javzandamba on display in the Larivan Temple at Erdene Zuu, in Kharkhorin, Övörkhangai Aimag. The sixteenth incarnation was of course Taranatha, who was born in Tibet and died in Mongolia. 
16. Жонан Дарната
Jonan Darnata (Taranatha) statue at Erdene Zuu
Tibetan thangka of Taranatha
This spectacular late nineteenth century thangka of Yamantaka (it measures over seven feet in length) was just recently unearthed in the archives of the Bogd Khaan Winter Palace Museum, a vast repository of materials many of which have never been put on public display before or even catalogued. The first twenty-four incarnations of Javzandamba are depicted at the top of the thangka. 
Taranatha on the Yamantaka thangka above
The next nine incarnations (17 through 25) served as the Bogd Gegeens of Mongolia. The first was of course Zanabazar
17. 1 Богд Занабазар (1635-1723)
Zanabazar  (Enlargement)
Statue of Zanabazar in the Bogd Khan Winter Palace Museum 
18. II Богд Лувсандамбийдонмэ (1624-1557)
Luvsandambiidonme  
19. lll Богд Ишдамбийням (1758-1773)
Ishdambiinyam  
20. IV Богд Лувсантүвдэнванчуг (1775-1813)
Luvsantüvdenvanchug
21.  V Богд Лувсанчүлтэм Жигмэддамбийжанцан (1815-1841)
Luvsanchültem Jigmeddambiijantsan 
22.  Vl Богд Лувсанбалдандамбийжанцан (1643-1648)
Luvsanbaldandambiijantsan 
23. VII Богд Агваанчойживанчүгпринлайжамц (1849-1868)
Agvaanchoijivanchülgprinlaijamts
24.  VIIl Богд Агваанлувсанчойжинямданзанванчүг (1869-1924)
Eighth Bogd Gegeen Agvaanluvsanchoijinyamdanzanvanchüg 
25. IX Богд Жамбалнамдолчойжижанцан (1932 – )
 Jambalnamdolchoijijantsan
The Ninth Bogd Gegeen lives in Ulaanbaatar but reportedly is in very bad health. Speculation has already begun on where the 10th Bogd Gegeen will be born. 

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Mongolia | Fifth of the Nine-Nines | Tavisan Budaa Khöldökhgui

The Fifth of the Nine-Nines—nine periods of nine days each, each period marked by some description of winter weather—began on January 27. This is Tavisan Budaa Khöldökhgui, the time when “Cooked Rice Cannot Be Frozen.” I must admit I really don’t understand the definition of this period. It seems to me that cooked rice would be frozen at any temperature below freezing, and we can certainly expect colder temperatures than that during the last week of January and beginning of February. Anyhow, the Fourth of the Nine-Nines was supposed to be coldest of the Nine-Nines, but this year the Fifth might well turn out to be colder. I have blogged in the past about the Magical Moment when 40 below zero are the same on the Fahreinheit and Celsius scales. The last few days we have been having a Magic Moment every morning.


This morning it dropped down to a frosty 45 below 0º F.


Some old Gray Beards I spoke with at the Bogd Khaan Winter Palace Museum yesterday assured me that this would be the coldest week of the year and that we might expect it to warm up just a bit before Tsagaan Sar, the Mongolian New Year, on February 22. In any case, it is good weather for people who are freezing their Buuz on the balcony in preparation for the Festive Day

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Mongolia | Fourth of the Nine Nines | Dönön Ükhiin Ever Khöldöne

Update: 40º below 0 F. at 8:00 am on Thursday the 19th and calling for 47º below 0º F. tonight. So the Fourth of the Nine-Nines is living up to its reputation as the coldest of the nine nine-day periods of winter weather.

The Fourth of the Nine-Nines, known as Dönön Ükhiin Ever Khöldöne—Time When Four Year-Old Cows’ Horns Freeze—begins today, January 18. This is supposed to be the coldest of the Nine-Nines, nine periods of nine days each, each period marked by some description of winter weather. It was 20 below F. (–29º C. for you unrepentant Celsius freaks) at 10:00 am, not especially cold for This Time Of The Year. But the forecast for this week is for much, much colder weather, maybe even record-setting. Stay tuned . . . 

Friday, January 13, 2012

Chingis Khan Rides West | Flight of the Khorezmshah | Nishapur | Ray | Hamadan

As we have seen, the Khorezmshah spent almost a month Carousing with the Songstresses and Damels of Nishapur. These bacchanalias ended when word arrived that the Mongol pursuit party which had been sent to bring the Khorezmshah to heel was on the way. The Mongol commanders Jebe and Sübetei and their 30,000 men arrived at the walls of Nishapur in early June, after the Khorezmshah had already fled. They immediately sent an envoy into the city to met with local officials and demand food and other supplies. Three local envoys then came out to met Jebe and proffer gifts and provisions. They made an outward show of submission, but Jebe was not satisfied.  He harangued them about the futility of any further resistance and to reenforce his point he presented to the town fathers a copy of a decree in Uighur script from Chingis Khan, apparently stamped with his own seal,  which stated:
Whosover . . . shall submit, mercy will be shown to them and unto his wives and children and household; but whosoever shall not submit, shall perish together with all his wives and children and kinsmen.
The import of this decree seemed to be that although Jebe and Sübetei might ride on, the city must immediately submit to any other Mongol armies that arrived in the future. Chingis had probably already decided to invade Khorasan at this point, and was depending on Jebe and Sübetei—in addition to hounding down the Sultan—to soften up the region’s cities in advance. Indeed, according to one Chinese source, Jebe and Sübetei had been given specific order by Chingis not to actually invest any cities until he himself arrived in Khorasan. When sufficiently provoked, as at Zava, the two Mongol generals would overlook this order, but otherwise they were to keep their attention focused on the Khorezmshah.

By the time they reached Nishapur, however, it was clear that Jebe and Sübetei had lost the scent of their quarry. The Khorezmshah, in his desperation, was traveling fast and light, with only a small retinue and a few bodyguards and was covering his tracks well. Even the historians Al-Athir and Juzjani are unable to account for his movements at this point.

Jebe and Sübetei now decided to spilt up and head in different directions in hopes of coming across the Khorezmshah’ spoor. Jebe heading westward to the district of Juvain (home of our scribe, Juvaini) and the current-day city of Jagastai. Sübetei backtracked in case the Khorezm had somehow slipped around behind his pursuers. First he headed southeast to Jam (current-day Torbat Jam in Iran) and finding no sign of the Khorezmshah there then looped around northward towards Tus, near modern-day Meshed.

Realizing that the scent here had long gone cold, he hurried on to Quchan and then to Isfarayin, on the great east-west Trunk Road through Khorasan. According to Juvaini the Sultan had indeed passed through Isfarayin, and here Sübetei may have stumbled upon the traces of his trail. By now Sübetei’s patience was apparently wearing thin, however, and he no longer felt bound by his orders to stay in hot pursuit of the Sultan and not attack cities. He offered Quchan and Isfarayin the same terms he and Jebe had offered Nishapur, but they refused to submit and were subjected to savage assaults and massacres, according to Juvaini. He then moved on to Damghan, where he discovered that many of the town’s most prominent citizens had fled the city and taken refuge in the Ismaili stronghold of Gerdkuh.

The fortress of Gerdkuh, built on a precipitous massif some ten miles west of Damghan, was considered so impregnable that the Ismaili Hassan Sabbah, founder of the Assassin sect, sent his own family here for safe-keeping when his own stronghold of Alamut—itself legendary as an impenetrable redoubt—was under attack. Overlooking the Khorasan Trunk Road—the main artery of the Silk Road through Khorasan—the occupants of the castle had grown rich extorting fees from passing caravans. The living quarters of the fortress were extensive and a large number of people could live here for months, or years, if necessary. Later, in the 1250s, when Chingis Khan’ grandson Khülegü attacked the Ismaili strongholds what is now Iran, Gerdkuh held out the longest, withstanding a seventeen-year siege from 1253 to 1270.

Here the eminences of Damghan took refuge from Sübetei. Obviously he did not have time to invest and subdue such a formidable bastion as this. Instead he attacked the “ruffians”—Juvaini’s term—who had had remained behind in the city. These were soon routed by the Mongols. At this point Sübetei may have received intelligence that the Khorezmshah was in Ray, since he now headed straight for the city on the Great Trunk Road. 

Meanwhile Jebe, after rampaging through the Juvain district, had crossed the Elburz Mountains to the province of Mazandaran on the southern edge of the Caspian Sea and laid waste to Amol and other nearby cities and towns. He too learning of the Khorezmshah’s whereabouts, Jebe immediately abandoned his raid on Mazandaran and headed south to Ray. 

According to Nasavi, while on his way to Ray the Khorezmshah had stopped briefly in the city of Bistam (Bastam, in current-day Iran), located almost exactly halfway between Nishapur and Ray, on the southern edge of the Elburz Mountains and famous as the birthplace of Bayazid Bastami (804-874?), one of the first of the so-called Intoxicated Sufis. Here he met with the local governor Taj al-din Omar Bistami and handed over to him two chests filled with precious jewels with instructions that the treasure should be taken for safe-keeping to the fortress of Ardahn, described by Nasavi as “one of the strongest fortresses in the world.” The Ardahn Fortress was located in about a three-days’ journey (perhaps sixty miles) from Ray, in the mountains between Damavand and Mazandaran.

Apparently the Khorezmshah hoped the jewels would be held there in safe-keeping in case he lost all his other financial resources in his precipitous flight from the Mongols. If so, he was sorely disappointed; the fortress itself eventually fell to the Mongols and the seized treasure was sent to Chingis Khan as war booty. Juvaini, it must be noted, does not mention the stop in Bistami nor this incident with the jewels. As we shall see, he does claim that after the Khorezmshah’s death his remains were eventually interred at Ardahn. Thus while his earthly treasure stashed at Ardahn was lost, the Khorezmshah’s earthly coil will presumably remain here until the Final Resurrection.

Both Juvaini and Nasavi agree that the Khorezmshah did not remain long in Ray. According to Juvaini, patrols loyal to the Khorezmshah soon turned up in the city with the alarming news that the Mongols were close at hand. The Khorezmshah now fled toward the castle of Farrazin, located near modern-day Arak about 150 miles southwest of Ray on the Hamadan-Isfahan Highway. Here he linked up with his son Rukn al-Din, who had about 30,000 Khorasan troops under his command. Up until now, Rukn al-Din had stayed out of the fray, apparently hoping to save troops loyal to him for a final stand in Khorasan.

WIth Rukh al-Din was the Khorezmshah’s mother Terken Khatun, members of his harem who were traveling with her, and another son Ghiyath-ad-Din. Earlier, right after he crossed the Amu Darya in flight from Mawarannahr, the Khorezmshah had sent word to his mother, who was then living in Urgench, the original capital of Khorezm on the lower Amu Darya, that she should seek refuge from the Mongols in the Mazandaran area south of the Caspian Sea.

Taking with her the vizier Nasir-ad-Din, the Khorezmshah’s own harem, her own younger sons and grandsons, assorted hangers-on, and a large cache of treasure, presumably gold, jewels, etc., she fled the city, leaving its defense to the local emirs. As we shall see, it was they who would have to deal with the Mongols under the command of Chagatai and Ögödei who eventually invested the city. Traveling by way of Dilistan, in what is now southwestern Turkmenistan, Terken Khatun and her party reached Mazandaran. There they apparently heard that the Khorezmshah was now somewhere between Hamadan and Isfahan. Proceeding south they finally linked up with him at the castle of Farrazin. The Sultan now sent her and her party for safekeeping to what Juvaini at one point calls the “castle of Qarun.” The location of this castle is unclear, but it may have been in the mountains south of Hamadan. In any case, with his family and women out of the way, the Khorezmshah finally appeared ready to take some concrete action against the Mongols hounding his trail. First he summoned Nusrat-ad-Din, who ruled over the ancient kingdom of Luristan, centered around the Zagros Mountains on the western edge of the Iranian Plateau. 


While waiting for Nusrat-ad-Din to arrive in he consulted with the local emirs on how best to deal with the Mongol incursion which was now threatening them all. They advised that the best course of action would be to take refuge in the depths of Ushturan-Kuh (“Mountains of the Camel“)‚ a chain of mountains in the High Zagros Range extending southward from the city of Borüjerd in the modern-day day province of Lorestan (the current-day Iranian Nature Preserve of Oshtran Kuh, perhaps a modern-day spelling of Ushturan-Kuh, is located in this mountain range). The Khorezmshah himself went off to inspect the proposed redoubt and was not impressed: “This is no place for us to take refuge in nor can we withstand the Mongol army in such a fastness.” The emirs, Juvaini notes, “were much disheartened” by the Khorezmshah’s refusal to head their advice.

By the time the he had returned from his reconnaissance of the mountains the ruler of Luristan, Nusrat-ad-Din had arrived at the Khorezmshah’s camp. Luristan was still nominally a part of the Khorezm Empire, and at his first audience Nusrat-ad-Din honored the Sultan by kissing the ground in front of him seven times. The Khorezmshah reciprocated the honor was allowing Nusrat-ad-Din to be seated in his presence. But apparently nothing of import was discussed at this first audience. Later the Khorezmshah sent two of his advisors to Nusrat-ad-Din’s tent sound him out on how best to deal with the Mongol threat. Nusrat-ad-Din advised that the Khorezmshah should pack up immediately and retreat to a mountain range between Fars and Luristan known as Tang-i-Balu. Within this mountain range was a rich and fertile valley which according to local lore was one of the Four Earthly Paradises. “Let us go there and make our asylum,” urged Nusrat-ad-Din, adding:
We shall muster a hundred thousand foot [soldiers] out of Luristan, Shuristan, and Fars and set men at all the approaches to the mountain. When the Mongol army arrives, we shall advance against them with a stout heart and fight a good fight. As for the Sultan’s army, which has suddenly [been] overcome with fear and terror, if on that occasion we gain a victory, they will realize their own strength and might and the weakness and impotence of their enemies; they will take heart.
The territory where Nusrat-ad-Din advised taking refuge, however, was apparently in the domains of the atabeg of Fars, which whom the Luristan ruler had a quarrel. The ever suspicious Khorezmshah surmised that Nusrat-ad-Din intended to somehow use him and his troops to settle accounts with the Fars atabeg. Nusrat-ad-Din’s counsel was rejected, and instead the now-chronically indecisive Khorezmshah decided to remain where he was and await the turn of events.

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Mongolia | Third of the Nine Nines | Gurvan Ükhrii Ever Khöldönö

The Third of The Nine-Nines began on January 9, which was also a monumental Full Moon Day. Gurvan Ükhrii Ever Khöldönö is the nine-day period of Winter when the horns of three year-old cows freeze. This period is supposed to be colder than the First of the Nine Nines and the Second of the Nine Nines.  At 7:30 this morning it was 26 below 0º F, about normal for this time of the year. 

Tsagaan Sar, the Mongolian Lunar New Year, is coming up with the New Moon on February 22. The coming year is, of course, the Year of the Male Water Dragon, which is the 26th year of the 17th Rabjung, or 60-Year Cycle, according to the Tibeto-Mongolian Calendar.